WINTER WORKOUTS: COLD WEATHER NUTRITION AND PREPARATION

By: Cary Smith

For many athletes, winter is the off season. This, of course, doesn’t mean sitting on the couch and losing all your hard-earned fitness from the summer. Rather, it means starting to rebuild so you can return faster and stronger next season. For many of us, this calls for bundling up and getting outside in the cold and dark. With this change in the weather comes a need for increased preparation of equipment, clothing and nutrition. Since I’m a skier and cyclist, I will focus on what I do for these activities but my ideas can easily be adapted to other sports.

 

Equipment preparation can be summarized with a simple saying I like to remind myself of whenever I don’t feel like waxing my skis or cleaning my bike: Take care of your gear and it will take care of you. In other words, stay on top of regular maintenance so that equipment failure doesn’t leave you stranded. This is especially necessary in winter since any unplanned extension of your workout can have dire consequences. For winter cycling, there are a few things you can do to make it more enjoyable. First, put fenders on your bike to stay dry so you can ride longer without getting as chilled. Second, have a good light system. Daylight is scarce and cars are not expecting bikes on the road when it’s cold, raining or snowing. Third, ride slower. I don’t mean easier, I mean use a mountain bike, cyclocross bike or fat bike. The wind generated while riding on the roads with 23mm slick tires will cool your core much faster than if you’re working harder to turn larger, heavier tires while going slower. 

Everybody has their own ideas on clothing choices that work for them. So, whatever works, stick with it. My rule of thumb is that I should feel chilly as I start my workout knowing that I will soon be warmed up. Try to avoid sweaty clothes, as they are the best way to drop your core temperature; wear layers that you can strip. Don’t underestimate the usefulness of a neck warmer. It takes very little space in your pocket or pack and almost acts as an extra layer. If you haven’t ridden with handcovers, or pogies, you’re missing out. You can stay warm with a much lighter glove, increasing dexterity and control. 

 

Your nutrition requirements are slightly changed in cold temperature, as they are at high altitude, which often goes hand in hand with cold and winter sports. As the mercury plummets, your need for glycogen increases. Your body doesn’t like to burn fat when it’s cold since glucose, both ingested and stored as glycogen, is easier and faster to use. What this means is that you should eat a warm meal 2-3 hours prior to your workout-think oatmeal or pasta-and then plan on Gu and Chomps to top off your tank while training. The trick here is to keep your food as warm as possible. Try to avoid storing it in your pack but rather next to your body-in a pocket, in your glove or even stuffed in your lycra. This aids both in ease of consumption and ease of digestion as your body doesn’t need to expend energy keeping your body warm while you’re trying to freeze it from the inside out. One study found that fingertips were 2 degrees colder five minutes after eating a bowl of ice cream and 5 degrees colder after 15 minutes.

Dehydration is prevalent in winter athletes for a variety of reasons. As our core temperature drops, the desire to drink is diminished. And the lack of sweat (if you’re dressed properly) leads people to believe they don’t need to drink. Unfortunately, your body is still losing water as both sweat and through exhalation. As you breathe in cold, dry air, your body needs to warm and moisten it. This extra moisture is then lost every time you exhale. Obviously, the harder you’re breathing the more pronounced this is. So, you need to drink and you need carbohydrates. What’s the solution? Gu Brew or Roctane, depending on the length of your workout. Electrolytes are not as important in the winter since, hopefully, you’re not sweating as much due to proper clothing choices.

Again, internal cold is the enemy, so the warmer the liquid, the better it works. Always fill your bottle or hydration system with warm/hot drink mix. The insulated bottles work OK in moderate temperatures but they’re still helped by keeping them on your body in a jersey pocket or in your pack instead of on your bike. I like to use a hydration bladder over my first layer but under other layers in the form of a low profile pack or a vest with a sleeve. Then I can keep the hose inside as well. Speaking of hoses, after drinking your fill, blow the liquid back into the bladder to keep it from freezing in the (insulated) tube. Drinking often will help your performance as well as keep your container from freezing, rendering it useless. 

Embrace the cold, just remember to prepare for it. It never hurts to bring a few more calories than you think you’ll need. It might be just enough to get you home when your phone is frozen and you can’t call for help!

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Gravel Bikes

By: Forest Dramis

Gravel bikes are the next big thing. Gravel bikes are ruling the market. Gravel grinders are ruling the race circuit. Crusher in the Tushar is THE race. Pardon me while I yawn...

Really? We've just discovered road racing on dirt roads? Strade Bianche? Paris Roubiax? Tour of the Battenkill? While I like a good marketing campaign as well as the next guy, and I realize if the bike industry doesn't change change BB standards every 8 quarters they'll go out of business, but I'm going to draw the line at Gravel Road Bikes. (Actually, I also draw the line at 650b, but that's another rant)

I had the "pleasure" of testing the Niner RLT – ($3,000, 19.2lbs), Foundry Auger ($3,050, 20.6lbs) and Vassago Fisticuff ($1,900,20.0lbs) at the Outside Magazine bike test in Tucson. Instead of giving you a rundown on each bike, I'll just give you my overall impressions as they were all pretty underwhelming.

None of them are as good as my cross bike. None of them handled off road terrain as well as my cross bike, none of them were as comfortable as my cross bike. None of them were as light as my cross bike and with the exception of the Vassago, none of them were as cheap as my cross bike. I also don't know who they're for. Are they for the guy who does a lot of dirt road riding but rides a little road too? OK, that guy should buy a cross bike. They're better. Are they for the road racer who wants to go kill it at the Crusher? That guy would be racing on his road bike. People who race "Gravel Grinders" and want to be competitive, race their road bikes. Is Fabian racing Flanders or Roubaix on his "gravel bike"? Please...

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Dura Ace Mechanical VS Dura Ace Electronic

By: Forest Dramis

The pros and cons of electronic versus mechanical shifting have been written about ad nauseum, so I won't add to what's already been said about the controllability of Di2, the reliability of mechanical, the death of the soul of shifting and anything else that doesn't really mean anything.

Let me start by qualifying their shift performance. They're both Dura Ace. They shift perfectly. Every, single, time. Period. After spending many hours riding both I can tell you that anyone who says they can notice faster or better shifting in one or the other is lying. While quantitatively Di2 may shift faster, it is completely imperceptible. For that matter Ultegra 6700 shifts so well you'd be hard pressed to distinguish it in a blind test, though it does have a slightly different lever throw.

So if DA900 and Di29070 both shift perfectly, what separates them? Money is one answer. Di2 is more money. Way more money. If you're rich and money is no object? Go for it. It's totally bling. It looks awesome, there are no cables to ruin the line of your custom Pegoretti and truth be told, the sound the servos make is awesome. A little like the sound the Enterprise makes when launching photo torpedoes. In a word, Di2 is cool. And let's just admit it right now, we want our bikes to be cool. 

The other advantage of note is sprint and climbing shifters. While completely unnecessary, I have to say, they're pretty darn nice. Not having to move your hands off the tops while going going full gas on a climb is pretty nice. Being able to easily shift from the drops in a full out out sprint is REALLY nice. Is that worth the extra coin? If you've got the coin? Absolutely. If you don't have the coin, well, it's just the cross we have to bear.

After many hours on each, which is my preference? Mechanical. And I'll tell you why. First off, I can't afford the extra coin for Di2 and would rather spend that money on race wheels, travel money or something else. Secondly, I actually like mechanical better. This will surprise anyone who knows me as I am a confirmed geek. I love technology and I love gadgets and Di2 is a super cool example of both. But for me, it's all about the lever. Di2 shifts so easily and there's so little lever movement that I was finding myself unsure if I'd pushed the lever far enough. Also, the upshift VS downshift levers have such similar feel that it was hard for me to know where my fingers were in full fingered gloves.

I'm the first to admit that these issues would go away in a week's worth of riding. Without question. But the small benefit of Di2 coupled with the large drawback in cost doesn't make me covet electronic. That said, if money was no object, it wouldn't even be a question. We'd all be on Di2.

DA 9000: $2,700 • 2,074 grams

Di2 9070: $4,125 • 2,047 grams (Internal battery), 2,104g (External battery)